DIAMOND RAGLAN PULLOVER by Michelle Ciccariello Experience Level: Intermediate to Experienced. Size and Yarn Requirements: 9-10 balls of elann.com Pamir for adult, 6-8 balls for child. Garment is pictured in Pamir color 322 Vanilla, with a finished bust of 36", and a finished length of 26". Sizing for lace garments is very fluid, and can be changed to suit at the blocking stage, keeping in mind that blocking will add more length than width. Size can also be changed as described in the knit-to-fit instructions and designer's notes below. If you knit-to-fit, simply increase or decrease your yarn requirements, according to the percentage you adjust the finished bust. e.g. if you were to make the bust 40" wide, rather than 36", you would calculate that 40" is 10% wider than 36" (40 divided by 36 = 1.1), so you would need 10% more yarn – i.e. 10-11 balls, rather than 9-10. Other Materials: - 6.0mm (US 10) circular, or size necessary to obtain gauge - A second circular (or dpns) of same size for working sleeves - larger circular needles to use for bottom shaping - 4 ring markers, color A, to mark increase points. - Multiple ring markers, color B, to mark repeats of lace pattern. - Multiple ring markers, color C, to mark queue stitch sections. - Stitch holders (or narrow ribbon). Gauge: Measured over Fern Diamond pattern, using 6.0mm (US 10) needles, 20 sts = 6" and 16 rows = 4". Lace Stitch Patterns Used: Fern Diamonds (mltpl 10) Place stitch markers after every 10 sts R1 and all odds: Knit for rounds, purl for rows R2: yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, rep. R4: yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, rep. R6: yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, rep. R8: yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k1, rep. On next R1, move ea marker ahead by 5 sts, then rep R 2-8. Horseshoe Lace (mltpl 10) R1 and all odds: Knit for rounds, purl for rows R2: yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k1 R4: k1, yo, k2, SK2P, k2, yo, k1, p1 R6: k2, yo, k1, SK2P, k1, yo, k2, k1 R8: k3, yo, SK2P, yo, k3, p1 Fir Cone (mltpl 10) 1T pg 207 Place stitch markers after every 10 sts R1 and all odds: Knit R2,4,6,8: yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k1 On next R1, move ea marker ahead by 5 sts, then rep R 2-8. (Adapted from Barbara Walker, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, p.207). Sharktooth Trefoil Edging • This pattern reaches its maximum length (7) on row 7, so if centering the first point, begin 3 or 4 sts before or after ctr marker. • Cast on 3 stitches using cable cast-on: (Insert rt needle between 1st and 2nd sts of lft needle, draw through a loop, and move loop onto lft needle to make new 1st stitch.) (Repeat 2 more times.) • This pattern will require a 1-time-only foundation row as follows: K2, knit last st together with 1 st from garment's edge, knitting through the back loops, to make a k1toE-tbl (Knit 1 to Edge - through back loops). R1: yo, k2tog, yo, k1 (4) R2: k2, yo, k2tog, k1toE-tbl R3: k3, yo, k1 (5 sts) 4 and all other evens: k across to last stitch, k1toE-tbl R5: k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k1 (6 sts) R7: k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k1 (7 sts) R9: k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, SK2P (6 sts) R11: k3, yo, SK2P (5 sts) R13: k2, yo, SK2P (4 sts) R15: k1, yo, SK2P (3 sts) This Raglan Pullover is worked from the top-down. You will be knitting half the rows of a lace pattern, shifting and repeating, for a simplified means of getting a diamond effect. Cast On: You will be casting on 2 sleeves and a back, and designating the back with 2 stitch markers. The stitches on either side of the back will become the sleeves. You'll also place a stitch marker two stitches in from each end. These designate the end of each sleeve and allow a 2-stitch edge on each side from which to grow the neck fronts. You'll be knitting back and forth to build up a few inches on each side of the front, then casting on the remainder of the neck and joining to knit in rounds. For child: CO 24 sts; place markers after 2, 6, 18, and 22 sts. These markers divide your work as follows: 2 front st, 4 sleeve sts, 12 back sts, 4 sleeve sts, 2 front st. For adult sizes: CO 34 sts, place markers after 2, 8, 26, and 32 sts. These markers divide your work as follows: 2 front sts, 6 sleeve sts, 18 back sts, 6 sleeve sts, 2 front sts. From Neck Down to Underarms (Knit to Fit): • All RS Rows: K-f&b before & after each marker, and at the beginning and end of every 4th row (i.e.: Every Other RS row) • All WS Rows: Purl or reverse-knit across, as required by lace pattern. • These lace patterns rely upon using stitch markers every 10 stitches. After every 8 rounds of pattern, you will move each stitch marker ahead by 5 stitches. This is easily and quickly done while knitting the next round 1 of the lace pattern. • Any stitches that are left over will be worked in stockinette until you have built up enough increased sts to add another repeat of the lace pattern. Mark these queue areas of stockinette sts with different colored stitch markers. • Knit the beginning in plain stockinette, and begin lace stitch pattern when you have enough stitches for one repeat of the lace; place queue markers to separate leftover sts. • When you have enough stitches added to the front, so that the front is only 10 sts less than the back, cast on the remaining 10 sts, join the knitting, and place markers so that the 10 sts just cast on become the center-front motif of the lace pattern. Everything from here on will be knit in rounds. • Change Increasing to: K-f&b before & after each increase marker, EOR. • Continue knitting, watching the raglan increase lines grow towards the underarms (to determine correct length, measure the vertical distance from the neck to the underarm of the wearer, then add one inch for ease (this is usually 4-8 inches for kids, 10-12 inches for Ladies' S-M-L, and 14-16 inches for plus sizes). Garment, as pictured, measures 10.5" from neck to underarm. • Continue knitting until stitches across back section (between your center two increase markers) equal half of total needed for chest measurement. (Keep in mind that the lace will stretch when blocked, so stretch it when you measure.) Garment, as pictured, measures 18" across the back section from underarm to underarm, for a finished chest measurement of 36". • Move the back's stitches to a stitch holder or a length of narrow ribbon, and the front's stitches to a separate length of narrow ribbon. • You are going to finish the sleeves before returning to the back, because it is easiest to knit the sleeves when there is nothing else in the way. Sleeves: • Move sleeve-backs (underarm to back of shoulder) to one circular needle, and sleeve-fronts (underarm to front of shoulder) to a second circular needle (or use dpns and knit each sleeve separately). • Using a different ball of yarn for each sleeve, knit around once, casting on 2 sts at the underarm-side of each sleeve-half • Knit around in the same lace pattern for about 5 inches, then begin decreasing 1 st ea side of underarm every 4th rnd. • Stop just below the elbow, and change to Fir Cone lace. Knit to desired length. Sleeves pictured measure 25" from neck to lower edge. • Finish the ends using any loose edging or lace. The example uses crochet: ch3, sc into 2 loops, rep. Body: • Pick up and knit front sts from one side, underarm sts (the 4 extra sts you cast on for sleeve), back sts, the other underarm's stitches (the 4 extra cast-on sts), then the sts from the other front. You should have no underarm holes: ALL underarm sts should be on the needle with everything else, and the underarm sections should fit smoothly into your lace pattern. If more stitches are needed at each underarm, pick up and knit extra stitches at each underarm, or if fewer stitches are needed, knit some of the old queue sts on either side of the underarm together. • Continue the lace pattern of Fern Diamonds. • Knit in rounds, to about waist length, then switch to Horseshoe Lace, making sure you move the markers ahead by 5 sts during the first round. Your central SK2P should be lined up under the previous Fern Diamond's yo-k1-yo. (The example shows this change at the natural waist length; the pattern also looks very flattering when this change is made a bit higher at empire waist length, or just below the bust line.) • After rounds 1-8 of Horseshoe, switch to Fir Cone. The Fir Cone's SK2P should be lined up under the Horseshoe's SK2P. • After the first 8 rounds of Fir Cone, switch to one size bigger needle. • Knit to desired length, then finish using Sharktooth Trefoil Edging. Garment, as pictured measures 26" from neck to lower edge, including 1.5" edging. • Edge the neck with sc, and you're done. DESIGNER'S NOTES Notes on Gauge: This sample was knit in elann.com Pamir, but is easily adaptable to other yarns. The neck is not fully constructed with the cast-on stitches; it is constructed as you knit, as are the chest size and length, so any gauge will work. Simply choose a gauge that gives you the amount of drape, fluff, or density you want with the yarn you are using. Notes on Choosing Alternate Lace Stitch Patterns: The structure of a pullover gives you plenty of room to experiment. If you are substituting a lace stitch which requires an odd number of stitches, use an odd cast-on; if it requires an even-number, choose an even cast-on. This keeps the number of sts in each sleeve or back section odd or even, allowing the stitch pattern’s motif to land in the center, which matters in some decorative stitches. For average sized woman, for an even number of stitches: CO 34 sts and place ring markers after 2, 8, 26, and 32 sts (for child: CO 24 sts; place markers after 2, 6, 18, and 22 sts). For average sized woman, and an odd number of stitches: CO 37 sts and place ring markers after 1, 8, 29, and 36 sts (for child: CO 17 sts; place markers after 1, 4, 13, and 16 sts.) Notes on Resizing: Cast on on amounts above can be altered as much as you like; the vital thing is to keep the ratio the same. Sleeve-to-back ratio needs to stay at 1-to-3. If you add a few more sts to the back section, but not to the sleeves, the chest measurement will end up a little bigger; if you add a st or two extra to the sleeve sections, but not the back, the sleeves will come out more full. If you want to change the proportions on purpose, use this as a guideline. If you just want to change the total cast on amount, stick to the 3-to-1 ratio. Each sleeve should be 1/8 of the total, the back 3/8 of the total, and the fronts will eventually grow to join and equal the back for the remaining 3/8 of the total. Abbreviations: CO - cast on, ctr - centre, dpns - double point needles, ea - each, EOR - every other row, inc - increase, k - knit, K1toE-tbl - knit 1 to edge, through back loops, k2tog - knit 2 together, kf&b - knit into the front loop and then the back loop of the same stitch, lft - left, mltpl - multiple of, R - right, rep - reapeat, rnd - round, RS(R) - right side (row), rt - right, sc - single crochet, seed stitch - row 1 - *K1, P1* across, row 2 – knit all purl sts and purl all knit sts, SK2P - slip 1 knitwise – k2tog - pass slipped stitch over, SSK - slip, slip, knit - slip next two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to right-hand needle. Insert tip of left-hand needle into fronts of these stitches, from left to right. Knit them together. One stitch has been decreased, st(s) - stitch(es), WS(R) - wrong side (row), yo - yarn over (yf for British & Canadian knitters). Please note this pattern is copyrighted material and the entire contents of this pattern are copyrighted as a collective work under the copyright laws of Canada and the United States. You may print a copy of this pattern for your own personal use and enjoyment, but editing, publishing, transmitting, e-mailing, posting it to a list service or database, or otherwise commercially exploiting this pattern is strictly forbidden. Copyright Michelle Ciccariello