TOP DOWN CUTAWAY CARDIGAN FOR CHILDREN by Michelle Ciccariello Experience Level: Intermediate to Experienced. Size and Yarn Requirements: 9 balls elann.com Super Cable Aran for finished chest of 26", and a finished length of 23" (as pictured on child age 7). Sizing for lace garments is very fluid, and can be changed to suit at the blocking stage, keeping in mind that blocking will add more length than width. Size can also be changed as described in the knit-to-fit instructions below. If you knit-to-fit, simply increase or decrease your yarn requirements, according to the percentage you adjust the finished chest. e.g. if you were to make the chest 28" wide, rather than 26", you would calculate as follows: New Size (NS) divided by Original Size (OS) = Adjustment Amount (A). (Or: 28" divided by 26" =1.1) Then you would multiply the Adjustment Amount (A) by the Original Yarn requirement (OY) to get the New Yarn requirement (NY). A x OY = NY (1.1 x 9 = 9.9), rounded up, allow 10 balls of yarn for the 28" size. Other Materials: - Two 5.0mm (US 8) circular needles, or size necessary to obtain gauge. - 4 ring markers, color A, to mark increase points. - Multiple ring markers, color B, to mark repeats of lace pattern. - Stitch holders (or narrow ribbon). Gauge: In Super Cable Aran, on 5.0mm needles, over English Mesh Pattern, 16 st = 4", after blocking. LACE STITCHES USED English Mesh Lace (mltpl 6 + 1) R1 (and all odd rnds): knit for rounds, purl for rows R2: k1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, rep. R4: k1, * yo, k1, SK2P, k1, yo, k1, rep. R6: k1, * k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, rep. R8: k2tog* (k1, yo)x2, k1, SK2P, rep. to last 5, end (k1, yo) x2, k1, ssk.. (Barbara Walker, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, p.193). (When using ring markers to separate reach repeat of the lace pattern, the offset in R8 will require that you reposition markers each time you work a Row 8 of this pattern.) Traveling/French Leaf (mltpl 12 + 1) R1 & all odds: knit for rounds, purl for rows R2&4: k1, yo, k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, yo, rep. from *, end k1. R6&8: k1, ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog, rep. from *, end k1. (Adpated from Barbara Walker, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, p.204. Little Lace Points Edging - This pattern reaches its max length (5 sts) on row 5, so begin 2 sts before or after ctr marker, if starting in front or back (if starting in line with underarm, it won't matter). - Cast on 2 stitches, using cable cast-on (Insert rt needle between 1st and 2nd sts of lft needle, draw through a loop, and move loop onto lft needle to make new 1st stitch.) - This pattern will require a 1-time-only foundation row as follows: K1, K next st together with 1 st from garment's edge, knitting through the back loops, to make a k1toE-tbl (Knit 1 to Edge - through back loops). R1: K1, yo, k1 (3) R2 and all other evens except R10: k across to last st, k1toE-tbl R3: K2, yo, k1 (4 sts) R5: K3, yo, k1 (5 sts) R7: k2, yo, SK2P (4 sts) R9: k1, yo, SK2P (3 sts) R10: Bind off 1, k1toE-tbl (2 sts) Lattice Points Edging - This pattern reaches its max length (7 sts) on row 5, so begin 2 sts before or after ctr marker, if starting in front or back (if starting in line with underarm, it won't matter). - Cast on 4 stitches, using cable cast-on (Insert rt needle between 1st and 2nd sts of lft needle, draw through a loop, and move loop onto lft needle to make new 1st stitch.) (repeat 3 more times) - This pattern will require a 1-time-only foundation row as follows: K1, yo, k2tog, K next st together with 1 st from garment's edge, knitting through the back loops, to make a k1toE-tbl (Knit 1 to Edge - through back loops). R1: k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1 (5 sts) R2 and all other evens except R10: k across to last 3 sts, yo, k2tog, k1toE-tbl R3: k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1 (6 sts) R5: k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k1 (7 sts) R7: k2, yo, k2tog, yo, SK2P (6 sts) R9: k1, yo, k2tog, yo, SK2P (5 sts) R10: Bind off 1, yo, k2tog, k1toE-tbl (4 sts) This V-Neck Cardigan is worked from the top-down. You will be knitting two sleeves and a back, plus V-neck fronts. Cast On: For average sized child: CO 17 sts, place ring markers, color A, after 1, 4, 13, and 16 sts. These markers divide your work as follows: 1 front st, 3 sleeve sts, 9 back sts, 3 sleeve sts, 1 front st. From Neck Down to Underarms (Knit to Fit): - All RS Rows: K-f&b before & after each marker. - On every 4th row, inc 1 at the beginning and end of row. - All WS Rows: Purl. - Knit the first 2-6 rows in plain stockinette, then begin English Mesh lace stitch patterns wherever you have enough sts in any given section for a repeat of the pattern (6+1). In each section, pm, color B, after the 1st stitch (+1), and after every 6 st rep of English Mesh. As you increase, in each section, sts on either side of your lace pattern that are left over will be worked in stockinette until you have built up enough increase sts to add another rep of the lace pattern. These stockinette "queue" stitches will wait in queue until they number 6+1 on the right side, and 6 on the left side of each section, at which point you can add another rep of English Mesh patt on either side of the section. - Continue knitting, watching the raglan increase lines grow towards the underarms (to determine correct length, measure the vertical distance from the neck to the underarm of the wearer, then add one inch for ease (this is usually 4-8 inches for children). Garment, as pictured, measures 7" from neck to underarm, including edging. - Continue knitting until stitches across back section (between your center two increase markers) equal half of total needed for chest measurement, ending at the end of a full rpt of lace pattern (i.e. English Mesh, Row 8). Keep in mind that the lace will stretch when blocked, so stretch it when you measure. Garment, as pictured, measures 13" across the back section from underarm to underarm, for a finished chest measurement of 26". - Keeping ring markers in place, move the back's stitches to a stitch holder or length of narrow ribbon, and then move the front stitches on each end to a separate stitch holder or length of narrow ribbon. - The sleeves will be finished before returning to the body, because it is easiest to knit the sleeves when there is nothing else in the way. Sleeves: - Keeping ring markers in place, move sleeve-backs (underarm to back of shoulder) to one circular needle, and sleeve-fronts (underarm to front of shoulder) to a second circular needle (or use dpns and knit each sleeve separately). - Using a different ball of yarn for each sleeve, knit around once, casting on extra sts at the underarm-side of each sleeve-half, as needed to make total number of sts that is divisible by 6+1 (for English Mesh pattern). - Sleeves will continue using the English Mesh lace stitch. - Knit around in pattern for a few inches, then begin decreasing 1 st ea side of underarm every 4th rnd. - Stop at desired length, allowing about an inch for the edging. Sleeves, as pictured, measure 12", exclusive of edging. - Bind off with Little Lace Points Edging. Body (Back and 2 Fronts): Body, from underarms to lower edge, is knit in one section, from front edge to front edge. - With WS facing, pick up and purl across all body sts that were waiting ribbons or stitch holders: left front, left underarm, back, right underarm, and then right front, as follows: - As you purl across, remove ring markers, color B, which you had used to mark the 6 st reps of English Mesh, and reposition them in preparation for 12 st reps of Traveling Lace on next row. Graph below shows how repeats of the two lace patterns are aligned. - As you approach each underarm, you will run into sections where sts from the previous row are not lace - you will have non lace "queue" stitches on either side of each sleeve, and you will have cast-on underarm stitches which are not on ribbons or stitch holders. To make the underarm sections fit smoothly into your next lace pattern, you will need to make them each exactly 12 sts (1 repeat of the Traveling Leaf). To accomplish this, pick up and purl stitches at the underarm as needed, and if necessary, knit some of the old queue sts together. Be mindful that your resulting 12 sts should be centered under the underarm, and that as you continue on repositioning markers, the alignment of the 2 stitch patterns will continue as pictured on the graph below. Graph of Alignment of 2 Lace Patterns , by Libby Grant (from top down - English Mesh at foot of graph and Traveling Leaf at top). Graph shows RS rows only: - Next RS Row, switch the lace pattern to Traveling Leaf patt. - Knit back and forth in rows, to about waist length (sample garment approx. 5" from underarm), with no increasing or decreasing, then ssk at end of every row to taper the fronts (or "cut them away"). - When the back is at desired length (sample garment approx. 12 " from underarm) , stop at the end of a RS row. Edging: You will be knitting a continuous edging around the whole sweater, spacing out bottom-corner increases to make them rounded. - Pick up all sts from one side to the other, adding them to the live stitches currently on your needles. - Beginning at one side, place a marker, then pick up all sts along one cutaway front, picking up 2 extra loops after every 4th one, until you reach the marker where cutaway decreases began. Place a second marker. You should now have markers on the needle before and after the cutaway section. - Next, you are continuing up one front, towards shoulder, at a rate of pick up 2, skip 1. Then pickup all sts across back of neck, then continue down the other front, resuming a rate of pick up 2, skip 1, stopping when you reach the cutaway marker on this side. - Place a marker, then pick up all sts along the cutaway, picking up 2 extra loops after every 4th one, until you reach the beginning of the live stitches. Place another marker. You should once again have markers on the needle before and after the cutaway section. - You'll be knitting this in rounds from here on, so everything will be on the RS. - Place ring markers at each of the two back raglan lines to designate decrease points (to shape sweater around back of neck). - Work in rounds, in a K1, P1 seed (or other flat stitch), decreasing 1 st on ea side of each raglan marker (use k2tog before marker and ssk after marker), on every other round (EOR), and increasing one st after every 8 in the cutaway sections, EOR. - Work 2 to 4 rounds in this manner and stop. - Use Lattice Points lace edging to bind off, keeping cutaway sections gently rounded by working rows 2 & 4 into the same edge stitch and rows 6 & 8 into the same edge stitch during the cutaway sections. - Sew on a button, cord ties, or other single closure at point of V neck, if desired. DESIGNER'S NOTES Notes on Gauge: This sample was knit in aran weight 100% mercerized cotton, but is easily adaptable to other yarns. The neck is not fully constructed with the cast-on stitches; it is constructed as you knit, as are the chest size and length, so any gauge will work. Simply choose a gauge that gives you the amount of drape, fluff, or density you want with the yarn you are using. Notes on Choosing Alternate Lace Stitch Patterns: The structure of a cardigan gives you plenty of room to experiment. You can create a beautiful effect and yet still retain a great deal of warmth by knitting in stockinette and reserving the lace knitting for the lower third of the sleeves and the body. For an allover lace cardigan, consider trying several different lace stitches. This sample used an alternating a diamond pattern over the yoke and sleeves, with a vertical column pattern for the remainder of the body, and knitted-on lace edgings. If you are substituting a lace stitch which requires an odd number of stitches, use an odd cast-on; if it requires an even-number, choose an even cast-on. This keeps the number of sts in each sleeve or back section odd or even, allowing the stitch pattern's motif to land in the center, which matters in some decorative stitches. For average sized child, for an even number of stitches: CO 24 sts and place ring markers after 2, 6, 18, and 22 sts. For average sized child, and an odd number of stitches: CO 17 sts, place ring markers, color A, after 1, 4, 13, and 16 sts. Cast On amounts can be altered as much as you like; the vital thing is to keep the ratio the same. Sleeve-to-back ratio needs to stay at 1-to-3. If you add a few more sts to the back section, but not to the sleeves, the chest measurement will end up a little bigger; if you add a st or two extra to the sleeve sections, but not the back, the sleeves will come out more full. If you want to change the proportions on purpose, use this as a guideline. If you just want to change the total cast on amount, stick to the 3-to-1 ratio. Abbreviations: Approx - approximately, beg - begin(ning), BO - bind off, CC - contrast color, cm - centimeter, cn - cable needle, CO - cast on, cont - continue(ing), dbl - double, dec - decrease, EOR - every other row, ER - every row, es - edge stitch, in - inch, inc - increase, k - knit, k1-p1 - knit 1 and purl 1 into a double yarn-over on the previous row, K1toE-tbl - knit 1 to edge, through back loops, k2tog - knit 2 together, k2tog-tbl - knit 2 together, through the back loops, k3tog-tbl - knit 3 together, through the back loops, kf&b - knit into the front loop and then the back loop of the same stitch, L - left, m - meters, MC - main color, meas - measures, mltpl - multiple of, mm - millimeters, P - purl, patt - pattern, pm - place marker, psso - pass slipped stitch over, rem - remain, rep - repeat, Rev - reverse, R - right, rnd - round, RS(R) - right side (row), sc - single crochet, SK2P - slip 1 knitwise – k2tog - pass slipped stitch over, S2KP - slip 2 knitwise - knit 1 - pass the 2 slipped stitches over, sl - slip, spi - stitches per inch, SSK - slip, slip, knit - slip next two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to right-hand needle. Insert tip of left-hand needle into fronts of these stitches, from left to right. Knit them together. One stitch has been decreased, st st - stockinette (or stocking) stitch, st(s) - stitch(es), tbl - through back loop, tog - together, WS(R) - wrong side (row), wyib - with yarn in back, wyif - with yarn in front, yb - yarn back, yd - yard, yo - yarn over (yf for British & Canadian knitters). Please note this pattern is copyrighted material and the entire contents of this pattern are copyrighted as a collective work under the copyright laws of Canada and the United States. You may print a copy of this pattern for your own personal use and enjoyment, but editing, publishing, transmitting, e-mailing, posting it to a list service or database, or otherwise commercially exploiting this pattern is strictly forbidden. Copyright Michelle Ciccariello